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The American Gem Society (AGS) announced it will close AGS Laboratories by the end of 2022, merging its operations with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). This integration will transfer AGS Labs' research staff, intellectual property, and technology to GIA's Las Vegas facility, which will become a center for research. The merger aims to enhance gemological research, protect consumers, and support the trade through new products and services. AGS will focus on its retailer programs and member education, while GIA will offer the new AGS Ideal Report as a supplement to its diamond reports which I discuss below.

The New AGS Ideal® Report by GIA

The AGS Ideal® Report, provided by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), offers a supplemental evaluation for premium diamonds, emphasizing their light performance, including brightness, fire, and contrast, beyond the traditional 4Cs (carat, cut, color, and clarity).

AGS Ideal® Report by GIA

AGS Ideal® Report by GIA

Key Measurements in the AGS Ideal® Report

  • Brightness: Assesses the diamond's reflections of white light.
  • Fire: Evaluates the dispersion of light into spectral colors.
  • Contrast: Examines the arrangement and distribution of bright and dark areas when viewed face-up.

These metrics provide a comprehensive view of a diamond's visual appeal.

AGS Ideal® Zero Rating

A diamond achieving an AGS Ideal® zero rating demonstrates:

  • High brightness with minimal light leakage.
  • Strong fire potential throughout.
  • Uniform contrast across the stone.

High optical precision does not always guarantee qualification for the AGS Ideal® Report due to specific performance factors.

ASET® Map

The ASET® (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool) Map visually represents a diamond’s light performance:

  • Red: Brightest light areas.
  • Green: Light return from less direct sources.
  • Blue: Dark reflections indicating contrast.

The optional ASET® Map provides a unique fingerprint of the diamond’s light performance.

Eligible Diamonds

The AGS Ideal® Report is available for eligible colorless (D-to-Z) natural and lab-grown diamonds, including:

  • Round brilliant: Diamonds with excellent grades in polish, symmetry, and cut.
  • Fancy shapes: Various shapes with excellent polish and symmetry grades.

Requesting an AGS Ideal® Report

To obtain an AGS Ideal® Report, diamonds must be submitted as loose stones to a GIA laboratory, either during initial grading or resubmission for an update. The ASET® Map can be included optionally for a detailed evaluation.

Despite the fact the AGSL is no longer running it is still important to have historical information on the lab and how it compared to the GIA. 

What Is a Diamond Certification?

A diamond certification, also known as a grading report or diamond dossier, represents an independent assessment of a diamond's quality. Carried out by acclaimed gemological institutions such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) , a certification attempts to standardize the evaluation of diamonds by applying a uniform set of parameters.

Let's break down the key components of a diamond certification:

  • Carat Weight: Enumerates the diamond's weight, rounded to the nearest hundredth of a carat. In diamonds, even slight variations in carat can command hefty price differences.

  • Measurement: Depicts the physical dimensions of the diamond in terms of its length, width, and depth. An understanding of these numbers can guide you in choosing the right stone for your setting.

  • Clarity Grade: Assesses the presence (or absence) of internal and external flaws, termed as inclusions and blemishes respectively. Grading ranges from 'Flawless' (no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification) to 'Included' (inclusions and/or blemishes visible to the naked eye).

  • Color Grade: Evaluates the diamond for any tint of color, based on an established color scale from 'D' (colorless) to 'Z' (light yellow or brown). The closer a diamond is to being completely colorless, the higher its color grade.

  • Cut Grade: A significant factor influencing a diamond's brilliance, the cut grade considers facets, symmetry, and polish. The grades range from 'Excellent' to 'Poor'.

  • Comments: Lists any additional remarks about the diamond that weren't covered under the other categories.

Remember, a diamond certification isn't an appraisal. It doesn't assign a monetary value to the diamond, whereas an appraisal does. It's evidence of the diamond's qualities and characteristics, lending you confidence in your investment. The diamond's certification isn't just important; it's indispensable when buying an engagement ring or any other significant piece of diamond jewelry. It ensures you're not overpaying for a diamond, and that it meets your expectations in terms of its quality.

GIA vs. AGS

It's crucial to understand the differences between the GIA and AGS. Both have a reputation for integrity and scientific rigor, recognized worldwide. However, they differ along the lines of grading systems, cut standards, and report layout.

Grading Systems

GIA primarily uses a 4Cs grading system that identifies the diamond's Carat Weight, Cut, Clarity, and Color. For instance, their color grades stretches from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). This institute conceived the D-Z color scale and Flawless to Included clarity grading.

In contrast, AGS uses a 0 to 10 scale for each of the 4Cs, with 0 representing an absolute ideal. This means a perfect diamond receives all 0s. Notably, AGS provides a separate grading for Cut, with an emphasis on the Diamond's light performance.

Cut Standards

GIA provides diamond cut grades that primarily focus on a diamond's proportions. For instance, their cut grades range from Excellent to Poor.

On the other hand, AGS has developed a light performance based cut grading system. It factors in brightness, contrast, dispersion, and other light performance metrics. AGS cut grades range from Ideal (0) to Poor (10).

AGS Cut Grading | Whiteflash

Report Layout

Finally, GIA and AGS present their reports differently. A GIA report contains diagrams illustrating the diamond's proportions and major inclusions. They also provide a plot of the diamond's clarity characteristics.

AGS reports, however, include an ASET (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool) image that shows light performance. It can provide valuable extra information about the diamond's cut and sparkle.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

As a trusted authority in gemology, the GIA is known for its rigorous diamond grading system. Incorporating science, precision, and quality assurance, GIA's system utilized four key diamond attributes: Carat, Clarity, Color, and Cut, collectively known as the 4Cs.

  1. Carat: Refers to the weight of the diamond. For instance, 1 carat equates to 200 milligrams.

  2. Clarity: Evaluates the presence of inclusions and blemishes in a diamond, giving grades ranging from Flawless to Included (e.g., a diamond with no visible inclusions under 10x magnification receives a Flawless grade).

  3. Color: Measures the absence of color. A perfectly colorless diamond, which is extremely rare, receives a D grade, while a lightly colored diamond might receive a Z grade.

  4. Cut: Focuses on how well the diamond has been cut from its rough form. Cut grades range from Excellent to Poor and primarily assess diamond proportions rather than light performance.

Experts at the GIA analyze each stone under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions to ensure accurate and consistent grading. By strictly adhering to this method, the GIA earned its reputation globally.

The institute's diamond grading report provides an in-depth assessment of your diamond's attributes and includes an intricate diagram showcasing the diamond's proportions and clarity characteristics. They authenticate every detail and inscribe a unique identification number on the girdle. This number corresponds to the GIA report, making GIA-certified diamonds easy to identify and trace.

A key distinction of GIA reports lies in their presentation of the diamond's clarity plot, where inclusions are carefully depicted. This level of detail proves crucial to potential buyers looking to understand the diamond's clarity characteristic profoundly.

Overall, the GIA's strict grading principles contribute significantly to affinity for certification from this institution within the diamond industry. Such an endorsement from GIA not only elevates diamond quality assurance but also aids in fostering informed purchases across the globe.

The American Gem Society (AGS)

Emerging in 1934, the American Gem Society aims to advance ethical business practices and consumer confidence in the gem and jewelry industry. As part of its mission, AGS developed its diamond grading system, emphasizing Cut, the most complex of the 4Cs. AGS's breakthrough performance-based cut grading spawned a revolutionary standard, which evaluates diamond proportion, symmetry, and light return.

AGS's grading system, unlike GIA's, grades on a scale of 0 to 10, with 0 being the best. Unique factors, such as light performance, get evaluated in AGS's system, enhancing grading details. For example, a diamond's brightness, dispersion, and contrast contribute to the overall cut grade under the AGS grading standard.

AGS Laboratories, an offshoot of the American Gem Society, issues diamond grade reports. These reports, similar to GIA's, come with a unique laser-inscribed identification number. Additionally, AGS diamond reports include a detailed analysis of proportion, symmetry, and diamond plot, similar to their GIA counterparts.

Mapping the contrast pattern of a fashioned diamond, AGS's ASET (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool) images offer additional insights. ASET documents a diamond's light performance, providing a valuable report section unique to AGS. Comparing the ASET image and the standard diamond plot assists consumers in understanding how a diamond interacts with light, enhancing AGS's approach to open, comprehensive reporting.

In terms of diamond certifications, AGS stands as a reputable alternative to GIA. Its performance-based cut grading and inclusion of light performance in grading set it apart. AGS continues its commitment to ethical practices and consumer education, reinforcing its solid reputation in the gemological realm.

Alternative Certifications

While GIA and AGS remain prominent in the jewelry industry, various other certification bodies offer diamond grading services. Included among these are the International Gemological Institute (IGI), the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL), and the Gemological Science International (GSI).

IGI, headquartered in Antwerp, Belgium, is well-regarded in the global jewelry industry. They're known for their diamond grading reports and commitment to upholding ethical standards, like GIA and AGS. Yet, their grading quality might not always match the rigorous standards of GIA or AGS.

EGL, with entities across the globe, is another alternative certification body. Some jewelers and consumers, however, express concerns about their grading consistency. Notably, EGL-USA stands apart from its global counterparts by declaring independence and committing to stricter grading principles.

Lastly, GSI conducts diamond grading predominantly for the commercial sector, particularly large jewelry chain stores. Although they've made strides in technology and automation, the quality of their grading has been debated among industry experts.

Overall, while these alternative certification bodies offer a range of diamond grading services, they can vary vastly in their techniques and standards. When purchasing diamond jewelry, one should always rely on certificates from recognized and reliable institutions, ensuring you receive quality, ethically procured gemstones.

If you’re looking for GIA with an AGS Ideal Report that have the best light performance and cut precision, take a look at the A CUT ABOVE Diamonds line from Whiteflash. For Fancy Shape Diamonds take a look at James Allen.